Ramie Plant: From an Ancient Plant to a Future-Oriented Fabric

For centuries, ramie remained an overlooked fiber in the textile industry, with products made from it rarely seen alongside the ubiquitous cotton and synthetic fabrics. The main obstacle? The higher price of pure ramie made it difficult to compete in the fast fashion world. 

However, the landscape is changing rapidly. Innovative blends now combine ramie with other fibers, taking advantage of ramie’s natural breathability and moisture-wicking properties while keeping costs affordable.

Ramie is versatile enough for both casual and business attire, while pure ramie fabrics offer premium quality for those seeking natural luxury. 

The Rise of Ramie: An Ancient Fiber for Modern Times

Ramie is a hemp plant native to East Asia (primarily China and Malaysia). Archaeologists have discovered ramie fabric products during their investigations of Neolithic sites, which means that ramie was used by people in East Asia 10,000 years ago or more. 

In fact, before cotton was introduced to East Asia, ramie clothing was the most commonly worn (silk was too expensive, and only a few people could afford it). The natural breathability, moisture absorption, and antibacterial properties of ramie fibers made it comfortable to wear and helped protect people—who were primarily engaged in agricultural production at that time—from disease. Ramie fabric could even be used as a medium of exchange during that period and served as a form of currency.

However, with the discovery of cotton by explorers in the Americas, this fiber plant soon spread throughout the world and became the natural fiber of choice for people all over the world. 

This was because cotton was better adapted to the local climate (Ramie is only suitable for growing in sandy soil in humid climates.), as well as the fact that the British had improved the cotton spinning process, which resulted in a much faster processing speed and greatly reduced the cost of the entire cultivation and production process. 

Not only ramie, but also flax, jute, and other fibers were greatly affected by the rise of cotton. However, ramie was the most affected because the process of extracting and producing ramie fiber was more complex and costly. 

Ramie Plant: A Sustainable Textile

Ramie is a bast fiber. There is a large amount of gelatinous material between the fiber bundles, which must be removed before spinning. 

In ancient times, before the development of chemistry, people relied on the ‘wet macerate’ a method for removing the gums, and no pollution was produced. This technique for processing ramie fibers is known as ‘Shabu’, which involves dozens of steps and is difficult to learn. 

It often takes decades of continuous learning before a person can master it. Currently, in China, the Shabu process is recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. However, with the passing of the older generation who were skilled in the Shabu process, the technique is at risk of being lost. 

In modern times, the extraction and processing of ramie fiber remain relatively complex. The chemical degumming process requires the use of large amounts of acid, alkali, and water, which undoubtedly pollute the environment. 

It is encouraging to note that new technology is now available that uses biological enzymes for degumming. This technology can significantly reduce pollution during fiber processing, but at a much higher cost.

Once the contamination issue in the degumming process has been resolved, ramie—as a sustainable fiber—exhibits characteristics that are superior to those of most other fibers. This is evident in the following aspects:

• Biodegradable: As a natural fiber, ramie is biodegradable, meaning that it naturally breaks down at the end of its life cycle, thereby reducing waste and environmental impact.
• Less Harmful to the Soil Environment: Ramie is grown using minimal pesticides and chemicals, and requires less water than other fibers. Therefore, it has a smaller environmental impact.
• High strength and durability: Ramie fiber is one of the strongest natural fibers, and it becomes even stronger when wet, making it extremely durable in a variety of applications.

Botanical Spotlight: What You Didn’t Know About the Ramie Plant

Like any plant, ramie can grow under a variety of climatic conditions. In general, ramie grows best in tropical and subtropical hillside soils with monthly rainfall of 75–130 mm. Wild ramie also grows in temperate regions with lower temperatures and precipitation (though yields are lower). 

Furthermore, research has shown that some ramie varieties possess special properties. For example, ramie varieties adapted to cold climates have been found in the mountainous areas of Fukushima Prefecture, Japan, where locals dry the bast fibers of ramie in the sun on the snow—something that is impossible for standard varieties — because the cold weather would kill the ramie plants. However, this also means that ramie has good climatic adaptability and has the potential to be grown in a wider range of areas.

Ramie has been shown to improve soil health. The ramie plant has a well-developed root system that effectively retains water and soil and prevents soil erosion. Beneficial soil microorganisms, such as nitrogen-fixing bacteria and phosphorus-solubilizing bacteria, are densely concentrated around the ramie root system, which improves soil structure and enhances the soil’s nutrient content. Compared to conventional crops, ramie requires fewer pesticides and fertilizers, thereby reducing soil pollution and promoting a healthier soil ecosystem. 

Aside from the bast, which is used to produce fibers for textiles, ramie has other uses. Ramie leaves are high in protein and can be used as a high-quality animal feed additive, effectively increasing the protein content of feed. The ancient Chinese used ramie roots to treat bleeding wounds and for postpartum care for women. Ramie seeds can be used to extract oil for making soap or for food. 

The Potential of Ramie Fiber in Fashion

Ramie is often referred to as ‘plant silk’ because of its natural luster and a silky feel. Ramie fiber has a smooth surface; its fiber cells are rounded and highly reflective to light, and after proper treatment, it can exhibit a luster similar to that of silk. Ramie is much more versatile than silk.

 Ramie is strong and durable. Most importantly, ramie fabrics are machine washable and can be cared for in the same way as ordinary cotton fabrics, without incurring higher costs.

Wearing ramie fabrics is beneficial to the human body. Ramie not only contains antibacterial hemp sterol and other beneficial substances, but also contains ting, pyrimidine, purine, and other components, which have a certain inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. 

In addition, because ramie fiber has grooved cavities and porous walls, it is rich in oxygen, making it impossible for anaerobic bacteria to survive. The ultrafine pore structure of ramie fiber gives it a strong adsorption capacity, enabling it to adsorb formaldehyde, benzene, toluene, ammonia, and other harmful substances in the air and eliminate unpleasant odors. 

After exposure to sunlight, the adsorbed harmful substances can be volatilized, and the adsorption function is automatically regenerated. 

In the past, the ramie industry was not taken seriously (the overall market share of ramie products was negligible compared to cotton and synthetic fibers). This was because pure ramie products were sold at a higher price, making it difficult to enter the fast fashion segment. 

Blends, which offer the benefits of multiple fibers at a significantly lower cost, are gaining popularity. There are already blended ramie products available that retain the appearance, high breathability, and moisture-wicking properties of ramie. 

They are comfortable to wear and cost only slightly more than pure cotton fabrics. For consumers looking for more formal, business-appropriate ramie-blend garments, there are also fabrics available that look almost identical to cotton. Of course, pure ramie fabrics ...still retain their premium quality. 

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